Scottish Tour

In typical Bell fashion, our annual holidays arrived and we still had no more of a plan than to head north to Scotland. Midges and bad weather were our main concerns about Scotland at this time of year, early September, we normally visit Scotland May or October time so midges are not a problem then, but we decided to risk it anyway. Hannah’s (Hannah the Savannah – Irmao of 2004 vintage) tanks were travel-ready i.e. fresh water was about half full only, enough for one night wild if I don’t find a tap to fill up, hot water tank full, grey waste tank empty. Toilet flush full. Two 3.9 KG propane gas bottles, one full one nearly full. The smaller gas bottles leave more room in the locker for ramps, EHU cables fishing gear etc. We don’t drink from the on-board tanks and carry bottles of spring water, stuffed into door pockets and other cub y holes around the van.

Our journey West from home then North was via Gretna where we joined the B7076 which is the old road and runs alongside the M74 until nearly at Glasgow then over the Erskine Bridge and up Loch Lomond as far as Tarbet then over “Rest and be thankful” via the A83 to Inverary and onto Oban for the ferry to Mull. I bought a hopscotch Calmac ticket which allows us to come off Mull to Ardnamurchan and cross later to Skye from Mallaig, but resisted adding ferry crossings to the Hebrides as we still didn’t have a plan.

Mull is delightful. We camped (wild) near Killiechronan just off the B8035 on a grassy area.

We were treated to a fantastic sunset over the Loch. Next day we toured the south end of the island visiting Lochbuie and Croggan where we saw a number of Golden Eagles – both “road ends” which we actively seek out and were a deciding factor in opting for a PVC in the first place. One road end that I now consider to be the scariest I have been on was next, we took the road to Carsaig from the A849, it started out narrow and got narrower and became VERY steep and nadgery at the end. The road end had a turning place but was full of parked cars. After a nightmare of a turn we struggled back up the hill to safety – phew! and beware! We managed to fill our water at the marina in Tobermory, then returned to the same pitch for the second night and yet again saw a fantastic sunset.   No midges to be seen anywhere so far.

Next day dawned bright and sunny so we stuck around and I did a bit of fishing and as usual caught nothing, after lunch we decided to move on, so took the coastal route on the B8073 past Calgary bay to Tobermory where we filled up again and caught the last ferry to Ardnamurchan. We camped our third wild night at the road end (see?) above Kilchoan with a wonderful view of Mull across the sound.

After a peaceful night we tootled along through Ardnamurchan but not before more road ends (easy and plenty of room this time) to Sanna Fascadale and Kilmory and of course the Lighthouse, the western most point of the UK Mainland. We arrived in Mallaig late afternoon and it had started drizzling. The crossing to Skye was smooth and we disembarked into sunshine again. We spent our fourth wild night at Kylerhea overlooking the Glenelg ferry hoping to see the Sea Eagle, but were unlucky this time. Midges were evident here as it was such a calm night and the late walk with the dog was done at some speed.

Next morning bright and sunny again and decided against the Hebrides and took the bridge to the mainland and up through Plockton which is beautiful when not filled with US coach-trippers. We had lunch in the Kishorn Seafood Restaurant (Scallops in Garlic butter with a croissant... Hmmm...) and headed over the Pass of the Cattle to Applecross. Hannah just got her head down and crossed with no drama. Applecross Inn for dinner and more excellent seafood before yet another road end wild camp at Toscaig.

The road north from Applecross to Shieldaig around the coast must have some of the best view's in the world! Followed by Torridon from the A896 to Lochewe. We passed the Caravan Club site there and kept north on the A832 with only one diversionary road end to Red Point which is worth the time to do for the views again. Past Gairloch and arrived at Poolewe to stay on our first camp site of the holiday, the excellent C&CC site there, where we did some laundry and used an EHU – luxury! Sat out late and was midge free. Had to change to our second gas bottle here and buy a refill.

Before heading north again next day we visited another road end at Cove where there is a memorial to the servicemen and women who lost their lives in the Russian Convoys of WW2. It’s hard to imagine now how busy this area must have been then as the departure point for these convoys. Very thought provoking. Much respect.

We made short work of the almost empty road to Ullapool where we hit Tesco’s (sadly) to stock up on supplies before heading off to Achiltibuie in the Summer Isles. We had intended camping wild and sat and had our tea right next to the beach near Polbain but the wind was increasing to storm force and was rocking the van in such an exposed location, so we moved a couple of miles to the Camp site and again hooked up for a very stormy and wet night.

Next morning was still gale force winds but now dry, so we headed up the very narrow coastal road to Lochinver and onto another excellent coastal road the A869 past Clashnessie bay and onto the A894 still heading north past Scourie and past some road ends we have visited previously and on to Durness. Weather was still bright and sunny but the wind was increasing again and we found ourselves just carrying on, through Tongue and onto Thurso as by now there was a definite plan hatching to visit the Orkneys!

We stayed on a council run site in Thurso which was fine and set out with some trepidation, due to the force 7 gales mentioned in the forecast, for the ferry to Orkney. Now the ferry from Scrabster requires photo ID like a passport (unbelievably) but the catamaran from Gills Bay is just a drive on, or as I found, a reverse on for campers and motor homes, which was interesting as the ferry even moored was moving around quite a bit. The crossing was rough and some folk were unwell, but we survived and headed to Hoxa on South Ronaldsay (a road end of course) and wild camped above the beach in Widewall Bay for another rocky night.

We spent three nights on Orkney and toured the whole “mainland” staying the second and third nights wild at the end of Geo Road overlooking Newark Bay.  Orkney caters very well for wild campers and most car parks have at least a toilet block, many have hot water and a stand pipe and some have showers! The Italian Chapel is worth a visit, built by Italian POW’s from a couple of nissen huts and whatever they had to hand, its a work of art. Orkney Brewery is definitely worth a visit in my opinion but take care not to overload your van with their products on departure... I wondered how much it would cost to fill Hannah’s tank with “Skull-Splitter” and have it on tap...

Returning to the main-mainland we headed west through Thurso as I wanted to drive the A897 through Helmsdale and it was a treat and worth the excursion. Now heading South we continued through Dornoch and found ourselves near the Black Isle, so we popped over to the C&CC site at Rosemarkie. It was surprisingly busy and we could not get EHU but had an excellent meal in the Crofters Bistro in Rosemarkie. Being in the Moray Firth the lighthouse point near the site is famed for Dolphin spotting and sure enough next morning just after low tide, there they were and very photogenic with Fort George as the backdrop on the opposite shore. Catch them if you can...

Now we had a dilemma as we we heading home but still had two nights to go, we had thought of stopping over at Broughty Ferry, just north of Dundee and visiting our Grandson who is at Uni there, but decided we would like to try again to see the Sea Eagle at Glenelg, so off west past Dingwall we went. However, one of the best things about a Camper-van is that you can change plans almost mid junction, as we approached Lochcarron on the A896, where we were supposed to turn left onto to A890 I suggested we headed for Applecross again and my better half agreed! So we went over the pass again.  Another excellent meal at the Inn followed by another peaceful night wild at Toscaig was had. I even got my rod out and did some fishing, catching a couple of tiddlers and a few green crabs, much to the amusement of the on-looking seals.

With just one night left we headed directly to Glenelg and had lunch at the Inn before settling down at a great vantage point looking over the ferry crossing  and waited for the Sea Eagle (Victor apparently). We saw lots of seals and any number of sea birds but again no Sea Eagle... never mind, there’s always next time. We met an American couple here who had imported their car – BMW X3, from California and were touring Europe for 2.1/2 years camping wild wherever possible sleeping in a roof tent... adventurous? Or daft? Winter will tell. They were a nice couple and I suggested some wild camp sites for them to consider on their journey around Scotland.

Saturday was home day and was quite a journey but we still found time to turn off in Glengarry for one last road end and headed the 22 miles to Kinlochhourn which was fantastic but again had a very scare y descent at the end, not for the feint hearted I can tell you. With fingers crossed we would not meet anything coming the other way, the climb out was just as scare y. In the event we only saw four cars in the whole 44 mile round trip.

Journey home was uneventful back through the Great Glen, Fort William, Glencoe, Loch Lomond, Glasgow and the M74/B7076 arriving home at 8.30 pm.

What a holiday, 1778 miles, 32.11 MPG and Hannah never missed a beat, what great Vans we have. I could have turned around and set out to do it all again in a heartbeat. Never mind, five weeks before our October holiday... better start planning – or not? he he he...